A week in Marrakech, Morrocco

RELAXING IN THE SUN 

The few afternoons we had beautiful sunshiny days. We relaxed at the pool and soaked up the sun. In addition I decided to try the Haman (steam room) and spa and gave it mixed reviews.The Haman was built in the old Maroccon tradition with three rooms each getting progressively hotter than the previous other. Stone and tile benches, arches and a water spout for hot water to warm the room. Once you were in the Haman you felt like you were taken back in ancient times.The massages I believe are knew to the Maroccon people and aimed at the tourists. We were even somewhat surprised to see Muslim woman wearing scarves providing massages to the men (the men have to keep their bathing suits on by the way). Jean had a massage but described it as a waste of money. The women who gave it, religious and possibly scared, had her friend sit in the room the whole time for presumed �safety� , while they talked and screamed non-stop and the friend even brought lunch in and chewed loudly while the chatter never stopped. Needless to say, relaxing it was not at all. Jean canceled his next appointment and opted for a hike instead. Mine was better and I think it was because of the gender issue, even though it was not your typical relaxing massage.The one masseuse I had was terrific and the other mediocre. The masseuse also talked non-stop with a colleague at the front desk, more like screaming in Arabic, versus giving massage treatment. So much for cross-cultural training on other�s habits and needs, as somehow their training in tourist ways, completely missed the point that a massage was supposed to be relaxing, rejuvenating and a quiet and peaceful experience. We chalked it up to Morocco and the culture learning Western ways and let the hotel know about the problem that needed attention. Overall, Morocco was fascinating; we enjoyed it very much and definitely could go back another time. If you plan to go, just be safety conscious and use common sense. Fortunately, my friend Dina had given us some solid advice before we went about eating, drinking and the market and we therefore never got sick as most other tourists did, and had a fascinating time. 

Visiting an Arab Village for Mint Tea

One morning we took a guided walk from our hotel to a nearby Arab village. In the center of the village was a 4 star Bed and Breakfast built by a Belgium man handcrafted with the best of everything. In order to buy the property he had to build the village a mosque. Surrounding the hotel were one level houses built out of brick from mud and straw. We visited a family (see outdoor living area for mint tea and fresh baked bread. Surrounding the center room was 2 bedrooms for 5 kids and one tiny kitchen with an alcove for the cows and chickens.  

Piste de Berber, Morocco

Following the Piste de Berber (visiting the Berber People)Traveling with 6 4x4 Jeeps, we journeyed up to the Piste de Berber to see the original population of North Africa living in the Atlas Moutains. We had heard about the colorful Berber people living in the mountains and their unknown origin (perhaps from India) and were determined to see them. We had heard about their longevity, love for the sun and ecological lifestyle and wanted to investigate for ourselves.Historically, here are a few facts known about the Berber people. There are about 300 local dialects among the Berbers. Berbers are Muslims, but there are many traditional practices found among them. Since Berbers typically outnumber Arabs in rural areas, traditional practices tend to predominate there. The conversion of Berbers to Islam took centuries and in many areas Islam was not dominant until the 16th century. This has resulted in Berber Islam being somewhat atypical in its incorporation of traditional beliefs, preserving more traces of former religious practices.Of major cities in North Africa, only Marrakech has a population with a Berber identity. The Berber dominance in the mountains can be traced to the days of Arab conquests, when the Arabs took control over the cities, but left the countryside to itself. The number of Arabs being too small for a more profound occupation. Berbers in those days had the choice between living in the mountains, resisting Arab dominance, or moving into the Arab community, where Arab language and culture were dominant not unlike today.Until a few years ago, Berbers were considered to be second class (like in many societies in the West: Indians in America, Aboriginals in Australia, Lapps in Norway). For example, in the most modernized society in North Africa, Tunisia, being Berber has been (and still is to some extent) synonymous with being an illiterate peasant dressed in traditional garments.Adapted from: http://lexicorient.com/e.o/berbers.htmBerber ArchitectureBerber architecture is essentially troglodyte. Houses and mosques are constructed by digging down into the earth and rock, so that most of the accommodation is underground, with only a small area built up on the surface. The advantage of this type of building is twofold; namely, protection from the Jabal's biting winter winds, and also from the fierce summer heat. The soft rock of this area permits easy digging, and the underground rooms remain at a constantly pleasant temperature of 17�C.The plan of the troglodyte houses is fairly uniform, with a steeply sloping tunnel leading to a large courtyard at a depth of about 8 meters. From this courtyard several rooms are cut into the surrounding sandy rock; these can be used as living accommodation, stables and storage areas. Fodder for the animals or human food supplies, such as grain, can be dropped through holes in the ceiling into the rooms below. Living quarters have whitewashed walls, with shelves cut for storing possessions. Water is stored in cisterns. Oil lamps were originally used for lighting, although many of these dwellings today are supplied with electricity.From: http://www.arab.net/libya/la_berbers.htmThe way of the life of the Berber people is from sunrise to sundown. Up at 6 am in which everyone has a bit of Olive Oil for breakfast. Work in fields takes place from 6:30-10 when the sun is low in the sky. A mid morning meal is followed by rest, relaxation and doing the chores or making crafts under the cool shade. Dinner is at 5pm and bedtime soon follows as the sun sets. The kids go to local village schools for 2-4 hours a day dressed in western wear that has been traded by the villagers for their fruits and vegetables. The average Berber person who lives in the mountains lives to a minimum healthy age of 85 versus the 65 in the neighboring city of Marrakech. Is it the morning Olive Oil for breakfast, climbing up and down the mountains every day, or living with the sun that keeps them so youthful and healthy so long?Later on we learned that the tour company believes in traveling in Jeep caravans through the mountains for safety reasons with small groups of about 6 persons followed in discrete distance by other Jeeps, but still showing a certain unity and potential force if needed to help each other in case of danger or accident. At one stop as 50 children surrounded our Jeep and people started getting a little scared, we could understand why. The children, like all those in Africa are taught to beg for money or gifts. However, in Morocco they have made a huge campaign asking tourists to only provide school supplies (i.e. pens, paper, etc.) to the kids to encourage them to learn. We bought a stack of pens and Zoe-Pascale handed out pens to the begging children and learning about another cultures and their needs. On our trip, 100� s of pens were given out to the needy children we saw.

Costumes and Dances of Morocco

Costumes and Dances of MoroccoOne evening Zoe-Pascale came home from Mini-Club announcing that she had tried on a variety of costumes, had chosen one, and we all had to rent a costume to dress up for the evening in Moroccan style. Getting into the spirit we went all out, rented clothes and dressed for the evening dinner and events. Below you will see pictures as well as some of the dancers from the show. It was terrific and the child acrobats in particular were amazing to see as they twisted and somersaulted doing incredible acts while guests clenched their teeth in anticipation.